Summer Cruise to Scotland - Page 2
Monday 9th July 2001
A
rest day included a long lie-in, a visit to Asher's bakers in Inverness (a
discovery from Nairn last year), and some grockle-shopping. We decided to
have a day in the Inverness Firth on Tuesday - since we missed seeing the
dolphins on the way into the canal - so we moved the boat down to Longman Yacht
haven in Inverness Harbour on the last locking.
There's usually some interesting
boats to be seen in and around the canal - this time we met
"Adventurer" just berthing in Inverness Harbour. This boat went
around the world in 74 days, and just over 20 hours!
Tuesday 10th July
Our
trip into the Firth meant following the last of the ebb-tide down - we saw
dolphins under the Kessock bridge, then stayed a while off Chanonry point, where
the dolphins were most active - one group of three leapt in a row just behind
our stern. As usual - they're almost impossible to photograph!
We
got back into the canal just before lunch - and whilst waiting for the Muirtown
Bridge, noticed "Redeemer" moored in the Muirtown Basin.
Although Redeemer looks like a trawler at first glance, she was converted for
the salvage recovery of cargos from ship-wrecks at very great depths. Run
by a Dundee firm headed by Moya Crawford, whose book "Deep Water" tells the
story, this little enterprise used Redeemer and tripled the world depth record
for successful cargo salvage recovery to 1250 meters - confounding the big
players in the cargo salvage recovery industry.
We climbed the 4-chamber Muirtown
Lock flight at 1:30pm. Just as we left the Dochgarroch lock, the heavens
opened and we got a soaking until Philip could fit the inside steering wheel and
we could retire below. Loch Ness was rather breezy and wet - but we
ploughed on through to Fort Augustus by 7:00pm, ready (hopefully) for first
locking up on Wednesday.
Wednesday 11th July
A
relatively lazy day today - up at 7:30 to catch the first locking up Fort
Augustus locks (whilst everyone was asleep!) then along to Great Glen Water Park and an
appointment with their launderette.
Again - several interesting craft
pass along this way - including, today, the Square Rigged "TS
Royalist" - the sea cadet's Tall Ship - seen here passing us in Loch Oich.
Thursday 12th July
Along
Laggan Avenue, the Laggan Lochs and into Loch Lochy - passed "Lord of the
Glens" which was just leaving the Loch - he only just fits into the
Caledonian Canal locks.
Through Gairlochy locks, then the reach to the top of Neptune's staircase at Banavie. The lock-keeper told us the lower basin at Corpach was full - so we'll drop the 8 chambers first thing on Friday morning - then out to sea again.
A
walk into Fort William, then the bright idea of tea at the Snowgoose restaurant at Aonach Mor ski range - they do a special on Thursday and Friday evenings -
including the cable car and a meal - so we ate at 2150 feet! The mist was
swirling - but we got some great views back over the canal, and up to the top of
Loch Eil.
Friday 13th July
Starting
out at 8:00am we dropped down Neptune's Staircase by around 10:00am - and met
yacht "Grouse" at the base of the flight. Grouse was heading
east in the Forth Clyde Canal when we stopped at "The Stables",
Kirkintilloch - and was making his return to the east coast via the Caledonian -
ie doing the opposite trip to Tidewinder.
We left the canal around 11;00am as
"The Jacobite" steam train was passing on her way to Mallaig - down
Loch Linnhe, we eventually picked up a rather squally, but sailable wind, in
lower Loch Linnhe - though when we turned North West up the Sound of Mull, it
was on the nose again.
Nevertheless,
arrived at Tobermory, Mull at 6:00pm. The harbour board have now improved
mooring arrangements - there are many more mooring buoys, a designated anchoring
area, and a landing pontoon.
The crew decided on a mosey around
ashore - and we were surprised to discover the "Sagar" tandoori
restaurant had opened some 7 weeks earlier. Duty hadf to be done, and so
we reluctantly gave up the idea of cooking our own tea, and tried the art of the
Noble Curry Chef. It was wonderful - the best curry since we left home.
Saturday 14th July
A
trip into Tobermory "first thing" (at least once the crew were roused)
to pilage the bakers - and other victuallers, then a brilliant sail in a
NW 4 across to Arinagour, Isle of Coll - new territory for us. Coll is a
long, low, rocky island, almost joined to Tiree.
A shore visit discovered the newly
opened "First Port of Coll" - who served some brilliant scones, jam
and cream - and not the "Ting" of a microwave had been near 'em!
Sunday 15th July
Heading down today for a look at Staffa - and Fingal's Cave. As we approached the north end of Staffa we were delighted to see a Minke Whale surface several times near the boat - not just the "Fin and Gone" view - but we actually saw her mouth and underside - thrilling!
Since the
weather was relatively settled (though there was still a westerly ground-swell)
we were able to go close in for a look. Needless to say the tourist boats
were happy - with dozens of folks landing for a look around. It's
relatively rare to be able to get close to the rather exposed, but incredible
rock formation.
On to Bunessan, Isle of Mull for the
night - the reported "Yacht Station" - Bendoran boatyard looks to have
shut, so we swung on the hook overnight - a quite and peaceful evening
overlooking the incredible mountain ranges of the Ross of Mull.